Good Choices in Road Cycling Gear for 2008

Introduction

The following might be reasonable choices for someone who wanted to get into long-distance road cycling or bicycle touring, and was willing to budget a minimum of $1500 to get completely set up with long-lasting equipment, clothing, and accessories. It's based entirely on my own experience, and I don't work for any of the companies whose products are mentioned. Your experience may vary, but the choices outlined below are all popular ones within the cycling community, and perhaps at least deserve a try before you settle on whichever purchase you ultimately make.

The Bike Itself

The Two Classic Choices

One of the best deals right now, particularly for anyone who wants a road bike which will last, which will get them up difficult hills, and which would be good for anything up to and including a ride all the way across the country, is REI's Novara Randonee. Keep in mind that if you're an REI member, you can apply one of their annual 20% off coupons to this item for even greater savings.

If you go this route, then once you've selected your frame size you should get an REI technician to swap the bike's stock pedals for a pair of Shimano PD-M540 SPD pedals (which should come with a pair of Shimano SM-SH51 cleats). Learning to use "cleat" style shoes and pedals takes a little practice, but is ultimately well worth it in cycling efficiency and safety.

Next, either have a staff member do a professional fitting so that your seat and handlebars are in optimal positions for your body, or follow a few simple steps (see the maintenance links at the bottom of this page) and do it yourself.

One thing to be aware of is that the Novara Randonee frame sizes don't include selections which would fit shorter folks with a very small inseam measurement. If even the smallest Novara Randonee frame size doesn't fit you then your next-best value is one of the two smallest sizes of the venerable, but slightly more expensive, Trek 520 bicycle, available locally through Gregg's Cycle (note: there's no need to swap out its stock Shimano PD-M520 SPD pedals if this is the bike you pick - leave them and replace with Shimano PD-M540 SPD's when they finally wear out).

Note that both the Novara Randonee and the Trek 520 have steel frames. This essentially means their frames have the potential to last a lifetime if properly taken care of, and furthermore that if necessary their frames could be repaired with basic welding equipment and basic welding skills which may be found in even remote parts of the world. The one caution with steel is rust: it's wise to store your bike inside rather than outside (which you'd probably want to do as a theft deterrent anyway), and if any point of the frame's exterior paint gets scratched deeply enough to expose the underlying steel you should carefully clean off any rust and then seal the scratch with nail polish - ideally either clear or the same color as the frame.

Alternate Choices

If you want the longevity properties of steel but don't want to ever have to worry about frame rust regardless of what the bicycle is exposed to or how little care it receives, AND you are willing to accept the fact that only specially-trained welders with special equipment would be able to weld a break in your frame, AND you are willing to pay considerably more for your bicycle, then a frame made of top-grade titanium rather than steel might be worth considering: at this time Seven Cycles is the leading company making custom touring bicycles with titanium frames.

On the other hand, if you'll be traveling with your bicycle by air fairly frequently then you might consider a folding Bike Friday instead: the "New World Tourist" model (with accompanying TravelCase, TravelBag, and possibly TravelTrailer depending on your preferred style of travel) would be an excellent choice.

For what it's worth, in addition to my main touring bike I eventually purchased an inexpensive single-speed fixed-gear model (the "Paddy Wagon" by Kona, paired with Shimano PD-M540 pedals) for training purposes: this style of riding has been a lot of fun, and has helped me break my bad habit of alternating between straining in high gears and coasting.

Note that with folding bikes or fixed-gear bikes, a few of the recommendations below may not apply (e.g. the model of the recommended replacement chain and spare tubes).

Gear Suggestions

Clothing

The following three items are essential right from the start:

  1. A CPSC, SNELL, ASTM, or SNSI-approved cycling helmet. Fit is critical, so it's unlikely this is a purchase you'd want to make without having tried the helmet on first.
  2. A pair of SPD-compatible cycling shoes with recessed cleat design, a fairly rigid outsole, and a means for securing the laces (if any) so they don't get into the gears. The inexpensive approach is to get a pair of Shimano SH-MT40's, making sure to keep the sole plate and screws with you in case you need to do extensive walking at your destination. The expensive approach is to get a pair of high-end SPD-compatible mountain bike shoes from Sidi or Shimano (for example the men's Sidi Dominator 5 Mega Lorica MTB or the women's Sidi Dominator 5 Lorica MTB), and have a set of Superfeet Blue Premium Trim-to-Fit Insoles custom-cut to replace their stock insoles.
  3. A pair of padded cycling shorts, and optionally a pair of (non-padded) cycling tights to wear over them in cold weather. Select by best fit rather than brand name.
Depending on what you have at home the following items may not technically be necessary at the start, but you'll probably want them eventually:

Accessories

For what it's worth, here's how I personally set all this up: the two bottle cages went on the top sides of the seat tube and the down tube, the frame pump went on the bottom side of the down tube, my water bottle went in the forward bottle cage while my cage pod went in the rear bottle cage (at least when extra water isn't needed), the velcro straps of the map holder went just outside the plastic mounts for the handlebar bag (pointed at a downward angle for the sake of the headlight), the mounts for the headlight and bike computer went just outside of the velcro straps of the map holder, the pannier went on the left side of the rear rack, and the red safety light went on the back end of the rear rack.

Bicycle Locks

The more secure a lock, the harder to carry it tends to be. There are only two ways around this dilemma:

  1. If your employer or city offers trustworthy bike storage (e.g. secure indoor storage or lockers) at your destination.
  2. If you can leave a heavy chain or heavy u-lock permanently locked to your destination bike rack 24/7, rather than carrying it with you: in this case weight obviously isn't an issue, and you're free to select locks from Kryptonite's heaviest "New York Fahgettaboutdit" line. For example, you could select the five foot New York Fahgettaboutdit chain (replacing its stock padlock with something even stronger) for serious total-bike protection without having to remove the front wheel. You could then add a New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock to your chain arrangement just to additionally secure the frame. Why not?
Assuming neither of those are options and you actually need to carry your locks with you, here are several possibilities in increasing order of weight/security:

  1. Get an OnGuard Terrier Combo 4 [5061] four foot light cable lock, and use it to secure your frame (and maybe one of the wheels) to some immovable object. This might make sense if you're participating in a group ride and have no reason to expect your bikes will be left unattended, or if your main lock were permanently secured to your destination rack and you didn't anticipate stopping on your way there. This type of lock offers essentially no deterrence to a thief who has brought his tools.
  2. Get a Kryptonite Evolution Mini U-Lock and use it to secure your frame (or perhaps your frame plus the rear wheel if your rack/fender arrangement permits the use of Sheldon's u-lock technique) to a rack. This might make sense if wheel theft is unheard of in your area.
  3. Get a Kryptonite Evolution Mini U-Lock, plus a Kryptonite KryptoFlex 525 2.5'/5mm looped cable. Start by running the cable through the front wheel, looping one of the ends through the other end, and pulling it tight. Then run the cable along the non-drive side of your bike, stringing it through one of the plastic parts on your helmet along the way. From there, if your bike permits the use of Sheldon's u-lock technique, simply string the other looped end onto the u-lock before you lock it. If your bike doesn't permit the use of Sheldon's u-lock technique, then run the other end of the cable through the rear wheel before locking its loop into the u-lock, which would presumably be attached to the either the chain stay or the seat tube on the non-drive side (go with the latter if you can - the less space left in the lock the better). This might make sense for most environments: unless thieves have graduated to using power tools (e.g. as is the case in New York City) your u-lock should be relatively secure, and casual theft of both wheels is deterred.
  4. Get a Kryptonite New York LS U-Lock and plan on removing your front wheel when you lock your bike, so that the lock can enclose the attachment point, both wheels, and part of your frame (you can still use Sheldon's technique if there isn't room to include part of the frame). It's possible your bike and your city's racks might accommodate this same locking technique with the next smaller size of this same lock (i.e. with the STD model rather than the LS model): if you can confirm this ahead of time then go with the smaller model.
  5. Get a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit 3 1/4' chain lock, replace the padlock portion with something even stronger, and plan on removing your front wheel when you lock your bike so that the chain can enclose the attachment point, both wheels, and part of your frame. The chain is obviously heavy, and most people who use this method wear it around their waist when it's not in use. This is the preferred locking method of New York City bike messengers, who not only have to contend with the worst bicycle theft rates in the country, but with the fact that they have to lock their bikes up for extended periods in random places.
It also makes sense to take your headlight with you, if theft is any kind of concern in your area.

The problems with depending on your existing homeowners or renters insurance to cover bicycle theft are that (1) your deductible may approach the value of your bike, and (2) your policy may or may not cover the bike if it's stolen away from your home. You may wish to call your insurance agent to discuss the options. Either way, to facilitate payment of any claims, keep the receipts for the bike as well as for any accessories attached to it.

See the maintenance section at the bottom of this page for information on how how to use Sheldon's u-lock technique (which was mentioned several times above).

Optional Items for Specific Circumstances

If You'd Like a More Comfortable Saddle

The advantage of the (synthetic) stock saddles which come with most bicycles is that they don't require any particular care, and water doesn't generally bother them. It's also worth keeping in mind that when you're first learning to ride and increasing your mileage, a certain amount of saddle soreness may be normal. However, if you do graduate to truly long distance riding or bicycle touring, or if saddle soreness persists, then you'll probably want to upgrade your saddle.

My recommendation would be to try the classic leather Brooks B17, with an accompanying Brooks Maintenance Care Kit and medium-size Brooks Saddle Cover. In the United States, one popular mail order source for these items is Wallingford Bicycle Parts. Keep in mind that as Brooks saddles are made of leather, they require care: specifically they need periodic leather treatments, and you should avoid leaving them sitting out in the rain overnight.

If You Commonly Ride in the Rain

If you commonly run errands by bike in the rain (and especially if you commute with this bike on a daily basis), then you'll probably want full fenders both front and rear.

Currently, the preferred choice seems to be the SKS P45 fender set, which is sold and installed by most bike shops.

If You Have Problems Shifting Into the Smallest Chainring

Unless their shifting mechanisms are kept in good adjustment, bicycles with triple chainrings can be at risk for dumping their chains to the inside of the smallest chainring when trying to shift into it. However, even if you have no problem adjusting your shifting mechanism, I think it enhances peace of mind to eliminate even the slightest chance of this happening: the inexpensive Jump Stop device by N-Gear will do exactly that. Note that the Novara Randonee, like most other steel frame bikes, takes the 29mm model of the Jump Stop.

If You Need to Drive With Your Bike

In my case a trailer hitch rack was the best choice: installing and uninstalling trunk racks takes time (plus the bike isn't as secure), and with roof racks I'd always worry about forgetting the bike was on the roof before driving into a garage.

U-Haul did a great job installing a 1.25" trailer hitch on my Honda Civic, and I'd recommend them for anyone who isn't comfortable figuring out which trailer hitch is best for their vehicle and then installing it on their own. From there, REI charged only a nominal fee to install an appropriate Thule two-bike trailer hitch rack with matching Snug-Tite Lock (important to deter theft of the rack itself). I then purchased a Thule 538 Cable Lock to deter theft of the bike while it's on the rack.

If you're loading only one bike it's best to load it such that the chain side of the bike faces away from the car, and use the provided strap to immobilize the wheels and prevent the bike from swaying too far away from the rack's vertical post at high speeds. If loading two bikes, you should alternate their direction and use the provided straps to secure the frames of the two bikes together along with immobilizing their front wheels: if you do this regularly then you might want to look into additional stabilization via the Thule 955 No Sway Cages, particularly if you brake rapidly or ride on rough roads.

If You Plan on Camping

If you're planning to do unsupported, long-distance cycling tours involving camping rather than hotel stays, then your choice of camping gear deserves serious attention: ultralight gear, or gear designed for bicycle touring, can save plenty of pounds and cubic inches.

The "Cyclosource" catalog from Adventure Cycling is an excellent resource for selecting camping gear, but at least as regards shelter the combination I chose was a Big Agnes Seedhouse SL 1 tent with a Marmot Arete sleeping bag and Therm-a-Rest ProLite 4 sleeping pad.

The Importance of Replacing Chains Before They Wear Out

At least from a cost savings perspective, other than an adequate lock the single most important item out of everything discussed above is the chain wear indicator or ruler: chains MUST be replaced regularly, before they wear past a certain point, or else they will wreck the gears on the back of the bicycle (and in extreme cases the front). Since it's unlikely you would have the tools necessary to replace those gears or experience at doing so, this would probably mean a trip to the repair shop.

You should get in the habit of periodically checking the wear on your chain (using the more stringent 0.75 side if you're using the indicator, or looking for being 1/16 of an inch over the exact 12 inch measurement if you're using the ruler) after your first 500 miles of riding.

Keep in mind that with any new chain, you need to remove a specific number of links from it to make it the same length as the chain you're removing. In other words, when putting on the new chain, compare it to the old chain, and make it exactly the same length with exactly the same number of links removed.

The maintenance section at the bottom of this page contains links to tutorials on chain replacement.

Vendor Links

Reference Material

Routes and Rides

If you like to ride at your own pace, and live in the Puget Sound area, then pick up a copy of Bill Thorness' book Biking Puget Sound, check out the Seattle Bicycle Touring Club online library, and print out the Seattle City Parks bicycle tours maps. For much longer rides, there are the excellent touring maps produced by Adventure Cycling.

On the other hand, if you prefer to ride in organized groups so that you don't have to worry about navigation, then for the Seattle area your best bet is the Cascade Bicycle Club (which also offers LAB-sanctioned rider training courses), together with the other rides listed in the "Tour Guide" published by bicyclepaper.com. For much longer distances, there are the American Lung Association of Washington's "big rides."

Bicycle Maintenance

It's entirely possible that the Park web site would be sufficient for any bike maintenance questions you might have, but if you'd prefer a more in-depth book on the subject I recommend Lennard Zinn's Zinn and The Art of Road Bike Maintenance.

The following online tutorials address specific issues that were brought up earlier in this guide:

Understanding What You Pass By as You Ride

If you want a better understanding of the various structures and machinery you pass by while riding, I'd recommend Brian Hayes' fascinating book Infrastructure: A Field Guide to the Industrial Landscape.